Category: Peru
-
Another Inca Trail
There are 3 sites widely regarded as the most important Inca ruins. Machu Picchu is by far the most well-known, studied, excavated, restored and easiest to access. Vilcabamba, the last Inca retreat during the Spanish war is technically accessible but has remained largely buried in the jungle since its rediscovery in the 1960s. Choquequirao’s current…
-
In the Jungle
After our rat-infested, sweaty expedition into the Malaysian jungle 2 years ago, we felt we were prepared for anything the Amazon could throw at us. When our tour agency mentioned that sleeping bags were not included, we laughed. Who needs a sleeping bag in the jungle? Which is why we were shocked when we arrived…
-
Rocks in the Cloud Forest
Two things are immediately apparent when you visit Machu Picchu. First, you are in the jungle. Second, the Incas were masters of molding mountains. When we boarded the train 2 hours from Machu Picchu, the terrain was dry and rocky. Very quickly trees and vines took over the landscape offering occasional glimpses of Inca ruins.…
-
Food in Peru
Traveling in Central America we very quickly got sick of the basics of rice, beans, and a side of meat. In Arequipa, Peru, we were delighted to learn that the basics were delicious from spicy stuffed peppers to sliced potatoes in a rich peanut sauce. In Cusco the basics continue to be tasty with their…
-
The Week in Ruins
Yes, we are going to Machu Picchu, the most impressive Inca city still standing. No, we are not hiking the 4-day iconic Inca trail to get there. We realized that we would not enjoy the hike due to the mandatory guide, porters, and 198 other trekkers keeping us company. Fortunately, the Incas foresaw our dilemma…
-
Welcome to Cusco…massage?
If you shut your eyes, the center of Cusco could be interchanged with any backpacking tourist mecca around the world from Kathmandu to Bangkok to Bombay. With offers of guided tours, massages, and bland restaurant food amidst gaggling conversations of English, French, German, and Hebrew, you also want to put in ear plugs. With eyes…
-
Goodbye, Arequipa
We will miss: Mankalu and Sarza for the best set lunches around Volcano Misti for its beautiful views wherever you are in the city Sunny days and cool nights The laundromat that spells Adam’s name “Aron” but always remembers us The numerous plays, concerts, and art gallery shows Evenings relaxing in the plaza and strolling…
-
Chile Up There
When we rented a truck to visit Lauca National Park in Chile, we were shown the wrenches, jack, and spare tire. Jorge told us we would be fine as long as we had a full tank of gas. He also gave us his cell phone number so we could return the car after-hours. Unfortunately, jumper…
-
Land of Pisco
Arriving at a bus terminal at night is inevitably a bad start to visiting a new city. In Moquegua, this was compounded by a plaza of protesters blaring their message over loud speakers, an hour-long search for a decent and reasonable hotel room, and a taxi-ride to a suburb where the 3 specialty restaurants were…
-
Holy Week, Arequipena Style
Like most of our experiences in Peru, our Semana Santa (Holy Week) revolved around food. We found two copies of the holy week schedule – one at the tourist information office where we scribbled down a list of dates and times. The other was posted at the cathedral but disappeared after Monday. Instead, we…