For our big Mexican getaway, we headed into the jungle of Calakmul. Our lodging had no electricity, no plumbing, food cooked over an open fire, and the “rooms” were Walmart-brand tents with air mattresses – the one luxury. Many hotels in Mexico incorporate “eco” into their name. Some of them even use solar hot water heaters and local ingredients. Campground Yaax’Che takes eco to a new level. Every solid structure has a rain catchment system to survive the long dry season. The toilets are composting, cycled regularly and don’t even smell. Howler monkeys hang out in the trees above camp competing with the cacophony of roosters, dogs, and ducks below.
Our main reason for visiting Calakmul was the expansive ruined Maya site in the middle of a giant wildlife reserve. The reserve especially did not disappoint. Walking around, we saw howler and spider monkeys, coatis, deer, crocodiles, dozens of colorful birds, and a cougar (not recommended for small children). The sprawling pre-Columbian city was overwhelming in the intense tropical heat and humidity, and we took 6 hours to explore all the buildings and pyramids.
Back at camp, in the busy kitchen, seasonal vegetables are chopped for salads or pickled for later. Plump tortillas are patted by hand. Some days, some of the noisy roosters end up in the stew pot. When we were there, the stew was covered with a decadent pipian (pumpkin seed) sauce. From simple tacos to a chicken dinner, two of our best meals in Mexico were served from this simple kitchen. This is a family affair – husband, wife, sister, son, daughter-in-law, grandchild. The patriarch is a friendly, rotund man who takes great pride in his natural ingredients while lording over his pot of chile curtido or checking on everyone’s meals. The 22 year old son handles the alcohol – offering tequila when they don’t have beer (most days). We practiced our Spanish with the matriarch the most – as she takes care of all the details like handing out blankets and making sure everyone knows that even though the shower bucket water looks dirty, it’s clean. It’s just rain water that touched the leaves first.
After a few days of heat, mosquitoes, and the lack of modern amenities, we were ready to get back to the big city. The family that runs the campground has been here over 20 years. It’s probably the food.
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