On most nights Parque Santiago is a typical plaza in Mexico: young couples smooching on park benches, old people chatting, a food vendor is selling corn.
Tuesday nights chairs line the plaza and the front row is filled with finely dressed older couples: guayaberas, huiples, and a corsage here and there.
Around 8:30 the 10-piece brass brand starts up. The 100 people in the front row are immediately on their feet. A few songs later we can’t help but join them dancing in the plaza and praying the band stays away from the Mambo.
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