Thaisland

Like most tourists in Thailand, we flocked to Ko Phi Phi, an island of preternatural beauty and overwhelming tourists. Before arriving we were warned of sold-out rooms and sky-high prices, but we decided to take our chances in finding a bungalow on a remote beach briefly mentioned in Lonely Planet. On disembarking the ferry, we were immediately dropped into a world of tour agencies, banana pancake restaurants, and sunburned frat boys, confirming our desire to escape. However, this escape was hampered by illogical extortionist long-tail boat drivers. Our other options were thus: stay in Adam’s version of Hell, take the ferry back to the mainland, or hike an hour up and over the island in the midday tropical heat saddled with all of our current belongings. We chose the latter, and after 30 minutes of shadeless stair climbing, we encountered bad news: “You’re going to kill yourselves,” from a panting descending passerby. As it turned out, she was nearly right, but not because of the last steep 10 minutes’ climb or slow 30 minute descent through the forest on the other side, but because when we arrived at the beautiful Rantee beach, all 3 bungalow operations were completely filled. Cara collapsed on the beach with the bags while Adam stumbled another 10 minutes over rocky headland to the next and last beach. Unfortunately, their bungalows were also full, but walking across the island made a good sob story, and Adam finagled us sleeping in a tent on the beach, the cheapest accomodation on the island.

Happily, the next day we were upgraded to a private bungalow and spent the next 3 days snorkelling between mountains of coral and thousands of vibrant fish directly off our beach, the best spot on the island. Every morning, we rolled over to see the sun rise over the ocean horizon and counted crabs on the beach instead of people on beach towels.

Note to selves:
Stick to remote islands not remote beaches in tourst epicenters.