From the outside, Malaysia is a conservative and Islamic country. On arrival, you realize that the people are smiling, the flowers are blooming, and couples are cuddling in the park, whether or not the women are wearing head scarves. You find naan, nasi lemak, and hokkien noodles on the same menu with Hindus, Muslims, and Buddhists eating side by side. This accepting atmosphere makes dinner choices difficult, but makes the rest of the day disarmingly simple and pleasant.
Travelling in Malaysia is like always having an unobtrusive travel agent at your beck and call. From bus tickets to mee goreng to accommodation, there is always someone available to point you in the right direction when you ask.
After a quick stopover in Kuala Lumpur, we are now in the Cameron Highlands, 5000 feet above sea level, where the temperature and life are mellow. Sprawling tea plantations dot the hillsides surrounded by ever-encroaching jungle. To reach the plantations, you can take a bus or follow the old indigenous people’s paths through the jungle. The cools temperatures and lack of leeches inspired us to spend the last two days attempting to follow these paths. Yesterday, we ended up on a trail through enchanted mossy forest that deposited us 8 kms south of our intended destination. Instead of visiting a strawberry farm, we had a pot of tea at a nearby plantation and enjoyed a ride back to town with a chatty local. There aren’t many places where climbing a mountain and getting lost can be any more pleasant.
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